The Canaries are calling

Hetal Doshi/ September 2, 2017/ Europe, Islands, Spain/ 0 comments

I’m going to introduce you to an offbeat destination. A destination that is astonishingly underrated and relatively unheard of. Sure, the Spaniards are in on it, as are most other Europeans. But if you’re from most other parts of the world, you probably haven’t heard of, or been to the Canary Islands. I run a travel start-up and yet I discovered the Canary Islands, or the Canaries as they are popularly referred to, on a trip organized by The Tourism Office of Spain, as part of an award from SheThePeopleTV, recognizing women entrepreneurs who run their businesses digitally. Canary Islands or the Canaries as they are referred to, are an autonomous region of Spain. They are an archipelago made up of seven large and many smaller islands, located in the Atlantic Ocean, south west of Spain, and north west of Africa, around 100 kilometers west of Morocco. Due to their geographical proximity to the tropic of cancer and the African coastline, these islands have a subtropical climate. Monthly average temperatures range from 18 to 24 Celsius, making them the land of eternal sunshine. The main islands are connected to each other by ferries and flights. The Canaries were formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, and their dramatic landscapes vary from snow covered mountains, to beaches, to craters, to forests, to modern cities. Canarian Spanish, a variant of Spanish, is the language spoken by the Canarian people. Most people in the hospitality industry speak some English. Some of the local guides speak a variety of languages. However, in the local buses, taxis, stores, and on the road, it helps to have a rudimentary grasp of basic Spanish words.

Of the seven main islands, I spent the bulk of my time in Gran Canaria and Tenerife. I used the Fred Olsen ferry ships to hop from one island to the other, and back. Within the islands, buses traverse the main routes, but I recommend hiring a car and using google maps to navigate some scenic routes and sights that are off the beaten path. If falling off the map interests you, the Canaries will fully accommodate you. In fact, while speaking to a local resident of Indian origin who owns an Indian restaurant, I discovered that there are hardly any Indian tourists who make it to the Canaries. Yet, both Gran Canaria and Tenerife have small but thriving communities of early Indian settlers, who have made these islands their home.

If you’re a vegetarian like me, you’ll be wondering if you’ll find wholesome vegetarian food on these islands where seafood and meat is a huge component of every meal. Make sure you know how to convey you’re a vegetarian at local eateries. With its fertile volcanic soil, there is an abundance of fruits and vegetables that you can consume on the Canaries. Fresh tasty salads will be your best bet and you’ve got to ensure that they are prepared without fish since it seems to be unwittingly added to most salads. Milk, yoghurt and vegetarian cheese are also easily accessible. In terms of traditional fare, I feasted upon the Papas Arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) made of unpeeled potatoes, boiled in salted water, along with mojo sauces at every meal. I prefer the mojo picón, a spicy sauce over the mojo verde which is a mild green sauce. At one restaurant, they prepared a main course of Gofio, made up of maize flour, which was sautéed with herbs and spices, in the local virgin olive oil. I finished the entire portion as it was beautifully prepared. Another popular local vegetarian dish is the Potaje de Berros, which is chickpeas served in a hot pot. Of course, if you seek international cuisine, there are a variety of Italian, Mediterranean, and Indian restaurants serving vegetarian dishes too. While I am not a connoisseur of wine, I was made privy to the knowledge that Canarian wines, born of volcanic soil and the sea, have a distinctive taste, and offer a rare opportunity to drink wines made from ungrafted vines. Canary Islands also have the distinction of being considered the “World Cradle of Rum”, and talking about Rum’s history is akin to talking about the Canary Islands. To date, Canarian Honey Rum has a unique formula and has a protected designation of origin “Ronmiel”. Wine enthusiasts and Rum lovers can surely delight their senses and taste buds on a night out in the islands. And if you’re a coffee lover, don’t forget to try the barraquito, a coffee served in glass, which comprises of a shot of coffee, hot milk, condensed milk, lemon zest, cinnamon and liquor 43 or Tía María. It’s the perfect beverage to sip while you’re sitting in a coffee shop in Gran Canaria or Tenerife, on a lazy afternoon when you simply want to sit somewhere and observe the nuances of Canarian life.

For shopaholics, the Canary Islands are a boon, vis a vis mainland Spain. You can get the maximum value for the Euro in these islands. The tax rates and VAT rates are lower, owing to their status as an autonomous community within the Kingdom of Spain. Go on, feel free to indulge yourself at the various departmental stores, boutiques, and designer stores without any guilt. While I’m not a big shopper, on my visits to the local shops and markets, I picked up plenty of yummy local produce. I bought a packet of gourmet coffee, grown in Agaete, located in the northwest municipality of Gran Canaria, the last place in Europe that still grows coffee. My mom loved the coffee so much that she only serves it to guests, and uses it sparingly otherwise for special occasions. On the other hand, I had instantly fallen in love with the tasty Mojo sauces made and served at local restaurants and guesthouses. I picked up a few copies of a book recommended by a local restaurant owner, detailing the recipes for creating different Mojo sauces from scratch. My friend who enjoys cooking new dishes considered this to be a thoughtful gift. I also chanced upon some flavorful cactus jam, another specialty product of Canary Islands; it had a rich deep purple colour and worked well with breads and biscuits. A little known gastronomical fact is that Canarian cheese is among some of the best cheese produced in the world and different varieties of cheese have won prizes at the ‘World Cheese Awards’. Don’t be afraid if you’re a vegetarian who’s looking for vegetarian cheese. Talk to the locals who’ll guide you to the right markets and shops which stock vegetarian cheese. I explored one of the local markets with a newfound friend who encouraged me to experience the taste and textures of select cheese that were suitable for vegetarians. I particularly loved the Flor de Guía, made from cow and ewe’s milk with vegetable rennet and cardoon pistils; unsurprisingly I finished all of it before I left Spain and didn’t have any leftover to carry home. Even now I can recall its creamy texture and heady aroma that left me craving for more.

If you’re a travel aficionado who enjoys exploring hidden gems, the Canaries are calling out to you. Keen to know more about the Canary Islands? Watch this space for my next post!